Supplies needed:
2 yards of matching brown lining (symphony broadcloth in dark chocolate)
2 packets of 6 yards of cheesecloth
1 yard of dark grey fabric for obi
Velcro or snaps for obi
2 yards of off white jersey fabric
2 packets of Boots brand bandages for your arm wraps
Light grey pants to alter
Rit Dye More in Charcoal
Rit pearl grey dye
Dark brown boot laces
Hot glue and glue gun
OPTIONAL ITEMS:
Rit Dye more in Chocolate brown (for dying the tunic if needed)
Tea for pants
Eco flo gel for dying boots
Patterns:
Wrap shirt
Her undershirt is very similar to her Resistance shirt, just made with one layer of fabric unlike the screen used Resistance shirt. For my costume, I actually used a older version of my Resistance shirt but I highly recommend the pattern I suggest above, just without the collar part.
Tunic
For my tunic, a good friend made my pattern and I altered it. But the pattern created by Sew Corellian is excellent! The only alteration I suggest making is to the back, placing the panels more side by side. Mine starts overlapped under the obi, then falls side by side.
I highly recommend making a mock up or two, as the front is very tricky to get to sit right, especially if you are busty like me! Once you are happy with your mock up, I recommend cutting your lining first, as if you make a mistake, the broadcloth is SUPER cheap to get more of. (lol I made one and was glad I cut that first!) Also, the slits on the side are not flush together, they split far enough apart so that the holster does not bunch.
Mock Up
Once you are happy with your lining, cut your tunic fabric. TAKE YOUR TIME, this stuff snags! You will want to lay your lining down as a pattern on your fabric first, the diamonds standing TALL, not wide.
Lining pinned up after adjusting (the wrap is going the wrong way lol)
I sewed up my bodice first leaving the bottom where the panels go open. This would ensure I placed my panels correctly and is I had to remove them later if the weren't falling correctly I could take apart the waist seam easily. First, you will want to sew up your lining, followed by your diamond fabric. Next, right sides together, sew the lining and the diamond fabric together. Make sure you are sealing the edges with a zig zag or surged edge as this fabric will bunch when washed because it will unravel.
Now you can sew your panels up, right sides together. Make sure you also surge these edges. Once you get all the panels sewn, place and pin them onto your bodice. Once you are satisfied, fold your raw edges in and sew.
As you can see here JUST the top of my back panels overlap, to account for my butt/hips. After about 1.5 inches, the whole thing falls side by side. My obi covers this overlap.
Wrap and obi
Remove your cheese cloth from their packets and unfold them both. Lay them flat on top of each other. If you have a hall or an large open space this will work best. Once you do that, fold the whole thing like a hot dog, so that its a about a footish wide. Sew up that side. Next get a dye bath of WARM water going of the charcoal. Do a quick dip, rinse, then let it air dry. Do that until it's a shade lighter than what you want.
While this is drying, if your obi fabric is NOT the shade you want, drop it into your charcoal dye bath, then rinse and throw it into the dryer. Repeat as needed to get the shade you want.
Next get a dye bath of pearl grey in WARM water going and do one last quick dip and rinse and let dry.
To make your obi, there is a great tutorial here to make it. I used Velcro to close mine.
All put together with belt by Aethereal Designs
Pants
So after looking at images, and this wonderful sketch made by a fellow Rey, I cut up the inside seam of the pant and the outside of the legs until I reached the curved seam.
I did a pin tuck down the center of the front of the pant legs until a reached where I wanted that half moon curved seam. This was also just a pin tuck into place, as well as the bottom seam below the knee. The darts were sewn on either side of the curve, but done on the inside. However recent photos look like these seam are also top stitched like the others. Now, recent photos also show that the curved seam continues to the back, which is something I will be adding. When I was done with all the pin tucks and top stitching, I sewed up the inside and outside pant seams. Last I added elastic to the bottom for stirrups, but that part is completely up to you.
Boots
My boots were a thrift store find, too, but another Rey found the same boots which I have linked above for you. See where the over the knee part is? I cut that off first. That has the faux leather on both sides. I separated the two pieces. Then on the part I initially cut, which was straight, I sewed up. I removed the straps and buckles.
Testing spat height
Next I cut them up and used them for the loops. There wasn't enough of the wider straps from the bottom, so for the last two loops on both sides, I used the thinner straps on both sides.
With loops and testing out the laces. This is before I cut down the top 1.5 inches
Realizing that for my short stature the boots were still a wee bit too high, I chopped off about 1.5 inches off the top of the boots then hot glued the layers together. Next I trimmed the bottom of the "spat" I had made to fit better over the bottom of the boot in sort of a curve. Then I used the suggested leather dye from Tandy, but if you can order the conac color, that would be closest!
Spats trimmed everything glued in place and the boots dyed
One final note
When you have your belt made or if you are making your own belt, make sure you account for about 8 layers of extra fabric!!! Otherwise your belt will not fit right!
And there you go! As always, please feel free to message me if you have ANY questions at all as I may have left out something I'm sure!
I am unsure how exactly you made the wrap. Could you please clarify or post another picture of how you folded it out and sewed it? This is my first time cosplaying and I want to get it right. Thanks!
ReplyDeletelooking awesome...
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