Jedi Leia: Marvel Comics

Supplies:

A water soluble marker

McCall's M4419

Simplicity 1036 

White knit fabric (see pattern)

Half yard grey suede fabric

Three sets of white hook and eyes
White, grey, and black fabric

Low loft batting

Invisible zipper in white
Needle

Leather for belt

Silver enamel paint by Folk Art

brush

8 silver conchoes

Metal sheeting

E6000

White Velcro

A lot of girls have wanted to keep Carrie's memory alive with this costume and I have been loving seeing more and more gals tackle it!

To start out, I found a HUGE roll of white knit fabric at a local Scrap Exchange I snagged for $5.  Turns out it was a knit leftover from Spoonflower which they donated!

Patterns I chose

The McCall's pattern I had from my Kahlan Amnell dress from 2009, and is no longer carried in stores, but they pop up on Etsy and Ebay all the time. It has the correct princess seams in the front, and the front panel can be made to be split on both sides or one (depending on the comic reference you choose to base yours on.)  I used just the sleeves from the Simplicity pattern.

Double side split front

Right side split

I laid out my pattern and marked my fabric with my water soluble marker, then cut. This fabric was similar to the Walmart fabric I used for my Senatorial gown, so it is delicate can can snag easily, but the drape is perfect! Very similar to the Joann's Jet Set.  After cutting, I pinned and put it on my dress form to make it fitted. I kept the opening meant for corset lacing from the original pattern for where my invisible zipper would be placed.

When I was ready, I sewed all my seams closed save the sides, so that I could attach the yolk and sleeves later. Then I folded my princess seams down, pinned and top stitched those down and trimmed my excess fabric from them, so it created nice lines.  At this point, I debated on weather I wanted the double split panel in the front, or just the right side. When all as done, I went with the right side, as that is more accurate to the issue I was basing my dress off of.  I also did a rolled hem at the split. I did NOT hem the bottom so it hung properly, as this fabric is SOOOO thin, but you totally can. I might not have done the rolled hem at the split, but I knew I would be doing a lot of kneeling at troops for pictures, so I added it to fight wear. I doesn't hang the way I want, but it works.

Next I mocked up the yolk in scrap fabric. Now this one is up to you as well. The triangle sections change from panel to panel, sometimes they connect, sometimes they do not. I opted to connect mine because I really liked that look, it felt more rebel!  Mine ended up having shoulder seams when I was done so that it laid correctly.

I transferred my pattern to the grey suede, allowing for seams.  I stitched the shoulder seams together, then laid out the whole thing on my low loft batting for the quilting and cut.  This reduces bulk at the seams. I wish I had taken pics here! I was on a roll at the time! Next I plotted out my quilting. there are 12 to 14 lines of quilting, depending on the panel. I went with the 14.  I used my black thread to make the quilting lines stand out more. When I was done with my quilting, I placed it on the dress and folded my edges under and pinned. I allowed room at the neck for the collar which I would add later.  I top stitched ONLY the bottom of the yolk in my matching grey thread. I would do the top when I had the hood done.

Now I patterned out the grey hexagons for the sleeves. Instead of pinning them on to sew, I used my fabric glue, as I KNEW that pinning would make them move as I worked on them. After they dried for 20 minutes, I top stitched the edges in my grey thread.  After hemming my sleeves I attached them to the gown and closed the sides of the dress.

Using the same pattern as I used for my Senatorial dress, I made my collar and hood. I just made the neck opening wider for more gathers, as this is a larger opening.  I attached my collar, then used my rolled hem foot for the edges of the hood. I gathered the hood on the ends using a long stay stitch on my machine and pulling to gather. Now I tucked in my hood ends under the grey yolk, pinned the yolk edges under and top stitched in the grey again.


The last step for the dress was to add the invisible zipper! Super straight forward and easy, followed by tacking on the three sets of hooks and eyes at the back of the collar exactly like Senatorial gown.

I threw my senatorial belt on just to see how it was looking. I stared at the dress for days. At this point, I wasn't sure about the double splits I did in the front. So I fixed it and made it only one side split.

I honestly wasn't confident on my belt making skills, so I was gonna commission it. But was had a con coming up and I really did want to wear it, so I pulled out my left over leather from my Rey belt and I traced my Senatorial belt out on it and painted the leather with two coats of enamel paint by Folk Art. Then I cut out the belt.

Next I got metal sheeting from Hobby lobby and used the pattern for the plates from P & S Costume Creations to make my plates. This metal is VERY thin, and you can easily cut it, BUT it also dings up fast. Make sure you round out all your edges when you cut.  Then I glued all my conchoes on with E6000 and let them dry. I eyeballed all my placements. I don't recommend that, unless you are comfortable doing it (or crazy like me). Measure all your placements. lol. Then I glued the plates down.  If you are using leather, I would actually seal the back of your belt before you do this, with some leather protector or some other method. It will flatten down the rough side of your leather so it doesn't rub on your dress. Also, if you can bevel or smooth over the edges of your leather, do that before gluing as well.  I was in a rush and did it afterwards. I was lucky I didn't wreck my plates!!!

Make sure ALL your edges are smooth to the belt when gluing.  Otherwise the metal could catch the dress. I found some wear to my sleeves after my first troop because one of my plates had a TINY edge up.  Last, I glued on my Velcro. You could opt for snaps, too! I wanted Velcro cause I was not comfortable doing snaps and I wanted that back plate like in the comic.  With Rebel Legion, the back plate is optional I believe.  I let dry and I was done!!!

Here is the belt with the gown finished!

I bought a pair of white jeggings from Walmart with a side zip which works great with this! I also wear my Senatorial boots with this costume.  Now this costume can be unforgiving. I chose not to line it as the fabric was SO thin. If you use a different fabric, you definitely could line it.  But, as it is not lined, you need to wear shape wear with this. I chose a nude body suit with a shelf bra, and I wear this over a padded sports bra. I also wear spanks with this, to keep all my lines clean.  If you have any questions at all on this build, let me know! It was super fun and very recognizable still at cons!